Day 18 - 26 April 2017 - Lady Musgrave Island, Queensland... WOW!

We left early morning on 25th in the dark, to ensure we arrived off Lady Musgrave Island with sufficient light to see the bommies in the lagoon and as we pass through the entrance. The ETA was 3pm with a 6am start. Seas were a pleasant 1m and we had a great calm trip. As we left the coast behind, all land faded away yet we still couldn't see the island. For several hours we travelled North East towards the island but out of sight of all land, a first so far on the trip.

With a call of "land ho!", actually it was a very excited Nicholas yelling, "hey, there it is!' we saw the outline of the island materialize on the horizon and slowly it crept closer.

As we approached within approx. 5 nautical miles, Daddy stopped the boat, dropped the sail and yelled out that he had seen a sea snake. We retraced out steps and the curious creature came right alongside the yacht. It was a yellow colour with slightly darker yellow/grey circles over the length of its' body. It then dived down out of sight after affording us a few pictures.

We returned to our original course and as we arrived about 500m off the Western point, the call of "Dolphins" was heard and everyone rushed back on deck to watch a pod of dolphins jump and weave around the yacht. They didn't stay long, and we continued around the island passing from the Western and then Northern side on our way to the entrance which is barely 12m wide with strong currents (as the tide was on the way out) near the North East Cnr. Everyone was on deck with polaroid sunglasses on looking for the channel and shallow bommies. With good directions and a lot of pointing, we navigated the channel and crossed the beautiful lagoon heading West back towards the island.

We anchored at about 3.30pm about 800m from the island and 300m from the edge of the reef in 6.5m of water (at low tide). For company we had about 12 other vessels, 2 large commercial cats with day trippers, who all left for the mainland almost as soon as we anchored, and the rest small yachts and cats like ourselves.

We couldn't wait any longer, a quick change of clothes and we were all ready for our swim and snorkel. Tender launched, and we motored over to the nearest small horseshoe bay on the edge of the reef (about 100m across from one side of the horseshoe to the other) with a small coral drop off to a sandy bottom with depth ranging from 3m to about 6m. The water was crystal clear and we could see all the way through the clear blue tinged water to the bottom.

Before we had even anchored the tender, a small turtle popped its' head up for a curious look about 5m away.

We dived in and ... wow, was it awesome! Fish, fish, everywhere. And the turtle????? well they were a regular occurrence and we saw 3 turtles on that first afternoon alone. We saw, many fish, including angel fish, coral trout, spotted cod, long thin gar fish (at least they looked like them), and lots and lots of others.

With the sun disappearing, we headed quickly over towards the island for a quick look, but darkness fell, and after realizing the island has only a very small channel, and the water was still shallow, we abandoned the attempt that night and headed back to the yacht; we were very satisfied with the efforts and the kids couldn't stop talking about all the different things we had seen.

A quick dinner, a movie and off to bed.

 

Day 17 - 25 April 2017 - Rest and washing...

Not much to say, a day relaxing at the marina doing washing, a few games of soccer.

Daddy, Nicholas and Jasmine took the tender across the port to a small piece of sand on the North side of the channel where they anchored for a swim and explore. After a short 150m walk, they had a small swim at the beach just North of the port entrance.

Nicholas and Jasmine did some digging in the sand and made a large battle trench and tried to hold back, unsuccessfully (which was somewhat of a surprise to them), the tide. Abandoning the position in the face of the superior forces of the tide, we bid a hasty retreat back to our tender and back to the yacht. Nicholas had his first go driving the tender, which he really enjoyed. Jasmine was an expert tying up the tender and casting the anchor.

Off to Lady Musgrave tomorrow, we can't wait!

Day 16 - 24 April 2017 - Is that a Dugong... oh, it's a dead turtle

We left the North White Cliffs and the top of the Great Sandy Straits for Bundaberg. We were surrounded by small sand islands all surrounded by calm warm waters and beautiful white sandy beaches. What a paradise! We passed a few boaters and they waved.

Following the channel markers across almost perfectly flat seas we set course for Bundaberg and a pleasant 10-15 knots of wind giving a fast passage. Seas were calm for most of the trip across the back of Fraser Island and we soaked it all in, trying to forget those days when everyone was sick.  We kept our luck and saw 3 dolphins as we approached Bundaberg, these all appeared to be the more normal size and colour dolphins, unfortunately however, Daddy got all excited when less than 40min away from Bundaberg, he yelled, "look, I think that was a Dugong!". We furled the jib, and motored back along our course looking for the shape Daddy had seen, Nicholas then saw the turtle; it was very still and sadly clearly no longer with us.

It was an easy entrance into Bundaberg Port for a tie up in the late afternoon. We walked up to the thriving metropolis of Burnet Heads, eaten by mosquitos, and found the pub, IGA store and we were able to restock our supplies and have a relaxing dinner in the pub. Thankfully they had a free shuttle bus for us back to the yacht for the night... and more of the friendly mozzies!

Drats, should have bought some thing at IGA! Lights out .....buzzzzzzzzzz

 

Day 15 - 23 April 2017 - The Great Sandy Straits and are they albino dolphins?

After a good nights rest we awoke to a beautiful view of a protected bay and a handful of boats who had arrived immediately prior to us the night before or who must have arrived overnight. The car barge was at work loading 4WDs of the beach not 500m away from us to take them across to Fraser Island. We launched our tender and headed over to a nearby small sandy island (a sand flat at low tide with no more than 100m across in any direction). We quickly discovered it was covered with small crabs who were extremely fast, and a bit cranky as the kids said. We caught up with one and it reared up and pointed it's nippers at Daddy. We left them alone and went for a quick swim.

We rested up waiting for the rising tide. We needed to time our arrival at the low water points up the strait exactly so we could pass over the shallow points, which at low water were only 90cm deep. Taking some advice from some friendly boaters from the Gold Coast, we downloaded the Navonics Chart App for the ipad/iPhone. This was particularly helpful as this chart includes comments from the public on shallow points or rocks others had encountered. A quick calculation and we determined that we needed to leave at 2.30pm to arrive in time for high water.

We departed on time and within 300m of our overnight anchoring point we encountered a massive pod of dolphins unlike anything we had so far encountered. There were at least 40 dolphins and at one point everyone was yelling out and pointing in every direction, they completely surrounded the yacht. We circled slowly and they stayed around us, completely unphased at such a stranger in their midst. What was unusual was these dolphins were extremely small, all of them! They seemed more like babies as we had seen previously in pods offshore, but these were no babies, they also a far lighter grey and many had patches of white or were entirely off white. Their dorsal fins were small as well, as though the fins had been sanded down so they were only a small hump rather than the larger fin of their cousins. Extremely unusual, and clearly a totally different breed from dolphins we had seen before... something to research at some stage in the future.

We couldn't wait unfortunately, and had to head off to ensure we were on time at the lowest sections of the Sandy Straits with high water. The currents in some sections can flow as much as 4 knots, which is very strong, so missing the tide can not only risk a grounding, it can make it extremely difficult to make headway (our cruising speed being 6 knots on the motor left only 2 knots to spare).

We headed up the straits and ... they are beautiful and calm. On either side we see sandy beaches, sandy flats, the occasional palm tree and mangrove and many small gums and paper bark trees. It reminded Daddy of the Myall Lakes in NSW. Occasionally we passed a small tinny or sports fishing boat, but otherwise we had the waterway mostly to ourselves.

We passed two extremely shallow points on the trip where the depth alarms were sounding and we had to slow to just a couple of knots so that Daddy could throw the yacht into reverse if required. One was the 'narrows' which is on the chart and well know to the locals, the other was not on the Garmin chart, but was marked on the Navonics chart thanks to comments from the public. Both had the depth below the keel, even at high tide dropping to 80cm, a very tight fit, but manageable. The channels are reasonably well marked. One disconcerting point to note, was that the sand bars are always moving so it is difficult to rely on the charts and you have to keep your wits about you. At one point, according to the Garmin chart, we had deviated over 30m out of the channel and were passing way outside the channel marks and in fact we were apparently travelling over dry land, the Navonics chart had us on the edge of the channel and almost hitting the channel marks. Taking into account some comments on the Navonics chart and the references inserted by members of the public, the latest channel marks, which are often moved, were correctly shown. All a bit disconcerting, travelling (correctly) between channel marks we can see with our eyes and in a 4m wide channel with 3 knot currents, and charts that are not entirely reliable over this particular area; all part of the adventure!

We arrived at the North White Cliffs at the top of the Great Sandy Straits for the night after a wonderful journey over beautiful waters at about 7pm in the dark and dropped the anchor in about 7m of water. In the dark across the water we could just see the lights of the Harvey Bay. Well protected we had a pleasant night ready for the trip planned to Bundaberg in the morning behind Fraser Island, the largest sand island in the world.

Day 14 - 22 April 2017 - So, can our yacht surf?

We have decided to try the Wide Bay Bar which is the entrance into the Great Sandy Straights. The original plan was to go around the top of Fraser Island, however it is a very long trip and we can't stay in Wide Bay any longer with everyone so sick.

We have obtained the latest coordinates from Coast Guard Tin Can Bay for the entrance across the bar. The water is as shallow as 3m at the low water, seas are 2m and high water is 1.8m. A worrying proposition.

We headed off from Wide Bay for the bar aiming to arrive 40min before the top of high water to have a slight incoming current and light. With light starting to fade we all put on our lifejackets and started the crossing.

Well well well... what can we say. We were travelling well with good speed and although it was a bit rough, things looked good until, yep... a set of waves arrived. "The sea was angry that day my friends".

Two monster waves arrived, probably 3-4m behind us, worst timing possible, and picked up the yacht. With Daddy holding on firmly and keeping the yacht going straight down the wave, the yacht reached 15.9knots and was surfing down the wave, the second wave was not quite as large, and we caught that one as well, although... it was easier, after all... Daddy was by then experienced with these sorts of monsters!

We made the turn as recommended by the Coast Guard and then weathered the mad mile dash.

As the sun set, we rounded the point and anchored in the entrance to Pelican Bay in 5m of water where it was calm.  Wow, what an experience.

What did we learn... perhaps don't do the crossing unless seas are under say 1.7m.

Tomorrow we will attempt the calm but shallow Great Sandy Strait at high tide.

Pelican Bay where we have anchored is absolutely beautiful, a real hidden treasure. Broad waterway and protected. We can see the 4WDs and camp sites on the beach, many of them are lining up to make the crossing to Fraser Island on the barge.

Daddy cooked a hearty curry with sausages, veges and rice. A few episodes of the "Deadliest Catch" (to show how soft we really are compared to them) and off to a well earned rest for everyone. We should all sleep well tonight.

Day 13 - 21 April 2017 - Less said about this day the better!

Weather report "suggested", I say that because they seem to be quite a bit out, seas of 2m and wind 10-15knots. We headed off, with the aim to do several day and nights to Bundaberg.

Within 5 hours we were in 2-3m rough seas, rain and wind gusting to 27knots and steady over 23knots. Everyone is sea sick to varying degrees and feeling terrible.

We spotted dolphins 3 times today, although they didn't stay around too long, ... probably knew we were so sea sick.

We rounded Double Island Point and anchored in Wide Bay in 5m of water. It is a safe anchorage but as the seas roll around the point, it makes for a terrible spot to anchor. 2m rolling waves come around the point and the yacht is rocking and rolling; although it is some relief, we are all still feeling terrible. We even had out lee cloths up to stop us from falling out of our bunks.

The Bay itself is beautiful and it would be great to come back one day (by land) and have an explore.

We enjoyed the company of another cruiser and fishing boat both waiting for the right tide to cross the bar into the Great Sandy Straits (the passage between the mainland and Fraser Island.

Day 11 - 19 April 2017 - Mooloolaba surfing and shopping

With the seas and wind a little bit rough for a pleasant journey, we have decided to take the opportunity to walk around Mooloolaba and have a shop and surf.

The beach with great safe clean waves are a short walk across the road. We were also able to simply walk the 2 kms up the beach to the shops behind the main beach.

We enjoyed a beautiful lunch at one of the small restaurants on the boardwalk (Thai) and we also used the opportunity to get fresh bread and milk.

Apart from a couple of rain showers, the weather is beautiful, and it was difficult to get the kids to leave the surf in the afternoon (we didn't want to go either).

We had a lovely relaxing dinner at the yacht club and only a few other couples were there. Kids ran off to the kids play room which was next to the restaurant.

We topped off the fuel and water ready for the next leg. Another surf looks on the cards tomorrow however as the weather is not expected to improve for a couple of days (Seas 2-3m and wind gusting 25knots+).

Day 10 - 18 April 2017 - The journey to Mooloolaba

Rising early we were able to catch the low tide as we headed out the Gold Coast Seaway and logged in with Seaway tower for our journey up the coast. The waves were small across the bar and we had little trouble apart from dodging several fishing boats and pleasure craft. This time Daddy chose the 'correct side' of the Cardinal mark in the middle of the sea way (which we had not seen on the way into the Gold Coast two days earlier, a new buoy from his memories 20 years previously, and it was only noticed on our way in in the dark after we got a nasty surprise with a low water alarm with water falling to only 1m under the keel at the time). No alarms this time, so the journey was off to a good start.

We had a great time relaxing and catching up with Family on the Gold Coast, and we were all sad to leave.

After meeting a lovely couple at the Marina, our original plans to travel outside South and North Stradbroke Islands around the top of Moreton Island and hanging a left to anchor behind Moreton Island, we decided instead to head on past Moreton Island on to Mooloolaba.

Dolphins were spotted off the tip of North Stradbroke Island. YAY! Makes dolphins spotted every day offshore so far.

We were able to put up the sails for a lovely trip and we also raised the Gennaker (an asymmetric spinnaker) off Moreton Island and it looked wonderful (and added a few knots to our speed). We were able to drop the sail without putting it into the drink as well, no small feat!

A beautiful sunset once again and night fell as we rounded Moreton Island on the way to Mooloolaba. We enjoyed a steady rolling trip (but no-one was sick). After a few calls to Coast Guard Mooloolaba to log off, we entered Mooloolaba at approx. 9.30pm and tied up (with help from a neighbouring sailer who was on the dock).