We left Airlie Beach for the last time early in the morning, slightly overcast with a forecast of 10-15 knots, slight chance of rain and seas of 1-1.5m, on our way, North East, to Stonehaven Anchorage on the Western side of Hook Island.
Hook Island is the second largest island in the main Whitsunday Island group and is north of Whitsunday Island. Between Hook and Whitsunday Islands is a small passage of only approx. 100m wide known as Hook Passage which has strong currents on the changing tides. On the southern side of Hook Island are two long deep channels / anchorages known as Nara (the more Western) and Macona Inlets (the Eastern one). Both inlets offer good anchorages in most winds and are actually recommended as potential hides in a Cyclone. On the Western side is a beautiful and protected (from South East, East and North East winds/seas) bay with anchoring and some moorings known as Stonehaven Anchorage with Hayman Island and it's resort directly to the north only 1.3nm away. This anchorage was our goal, eta just over 2 hrs (15nm). We planned to swim and snorkel, and if the weather is nice, stay the night. If the weather or bay is uncomfortable, we can head to another anchorage for the night, such as Cid Harbour off the Western side of Whitsunday Island or Butterfly Bay which on the Northern side of Hook Island.
The trip to Stonehaven was pleasant enough for the first hour, with the sails up and everyone relaxed. Several other boats also headed out of Airlie Beach at the same time, however they all appeared to be heading to Hamilton Island, except one, which appeared to be heading to Cid Harbour.
To get to Hook Island we had to cross Whitsunday Passage. Whitsunday Passage is between the mainland, North and South Molle Islands and the main Whitsunday Group, is in reasonably open water, is relatively deep water (down to 49m in parts), can have strong currents and higher waves as you leave the protection of the mainland and immediate islands and today turned out to be no exception.
The wind picked up quickly from the south east, and increased... and increased and when we were still 1 hour to go, we had 2.5m waves from two directions (south east and swell from the south), crashing over the side and bow all very close together (4-5 seconds apart) and wind gusting into the mid 30's. It was extremely uncomfortable and there was a definite current ripping up the channel dragging us north. This current increased, and Daddy had to adjust the direction as we were swept north to the point we were at least 3nm north of our ideal heading and were heading in and Easterly direction in our attempt to seek shelter and get to our destination Stonehaven. The current and wind dropped our speed significantly, and over the last half an hour, we were only doing 3knots towards our destination (having our normal speed).
After 3.5hours, rather than the planned 2.5hrs, we arrived safely in Stonehaven Anchorage. All the moorings were taken, so we anchored deep in the bay with approx. 6m of water under the keel at high tide.
Jasmine decided to relax on the boat and keep her cut dry, so Mummy, Daddy and Nicholas went snorkeling and swimming along the edge of the reef that was only 100m away. The water was quite cool, so after 20min, Nicholas jumped back into the tender to warm up.
The snorkeling was reasonably good, lots of fish however there was a layer of fine silt over most of the coral and rocks. This much have been as a result of the Cyclone that had passed through the Whitsundays prior to our arrival. After about 1.5hrs, we headed back to the yacht to enjoy lunch.
All around us there were other yachts, and motor boats, approx. 20 in all, 2/3rds of which appeared to be hire cats. Nearby (only 40m away) was a commercial yacht that was fitted out for tours and they had people learning to scuba dive and snorkel on board.
The swell was passing up the Whitsunday Passage, rolling around the headland and into Stonehaven Anchorage, causing a large amount of rocking and rolling for all the boats (except the cats). Wind bullets were also now passing over the island and into the anchorage from the south east. Whitecaps were visable rolling up the Passage. Mummy and Daddy decided to head down south 10nm back to the Western side of Whitsunday Island to Cid Harbour for more protection for the night. A large number of vessels all seemed to have the same idea, and over the afternoon, most of the Anchorage was emptied of vessels.
After a rest, we headed off. Hatches were locked shut and everyone prepared for the strong winds and waves that were expected up Whitsunday Passage.
Morning Light was hit hard as we passed up the passage which was extremely rough. Unfortunately it was not long before Nicholas, Jasmine and Mummy were feeling sea sick. Mummy was very sick. As we approached the South Western tip of Hook Island the yacht was flying off the top of waves and crashing down into the next with seas breaking over the front of the yacht. The anchor was tied down, but even so, both it and the 60m of heavy anchor chain (approx. 200kg) were making a horrible crashing sound as they got airborne and smashed back into the anchor locker of the yacht and the anchor hit the top of the stainless steel protector installed (thankfully) by Daddy prior to the trip to stop the anchor and chain coming out of the bowsprit. Wave sets were only 2.5m but were hitting the yacht so quickly (gaps between waves) the yacht was plowing into every second wave and it was also extremely choppy. The wind continued to grow, and gusts hitting the low 40's and gusts in the high 40's and spray covered the decks and covers.
It was with much relief we were able to round the point outside Nara Inlet on the South Western tip of Hook Island closer to Cid Harbour and get some relief from the waves with the protection from Whitsunday Island...as the sun began to set on the horizon with a beautiful red hue.
Once we were around the point on the South Western end of Hook Island, the waves dropped off reasonably quickly, the wind however was still growing as we approached Cid Harbour only 4.7nm away. Darkness fell and the wind grew and grew with wind staying in the 40's and a gust hitting50.1 knots, before dropping to less than 20knots as we entered Cid Harbour and it's protection under Whitsunday Island and it's higher peaks.
It was pitch black and almost impossible to see or judge distance of the moored yachts in Cid Harbour. Using the lights and our radar it was clear to seek it was packed with other boats all also seeking the shelter from Cid Harbour. On the radar Daddy could see at least 30 vessels, although only 20 lights could be seen. Mooring lights should be on for all anchored vessels, but clearly some bareboat vessels didn't know or had forgotten, so we had to keep our eyes open and our torch sweeping the waters are we slowly entered the anchorage. We anchored as close as we could to the beach and other yachts with 6m under the keel, approx. 3hrs after leaving Stonehaven Anchorage.
Dinner and some more of the tv series "Flash" and off to bed early for a well earned rest.
