Day 31 - 9 May 2017 - Depart Mackay for Goldsmith Island

Mummy and Nicholas caught a cab early this morning for Mackay town central to catch a bus up to Proserpine for their flight to Sydney.

Jasmine and Daddy prepared the boat together for the trip, locked hatches, topped off the water and threw the lines (Jasmine did a wonderful job) and with lifejackets on, we headed out of the port into 25knot winds and 2m seas/swell on our way to Goldsmith Island (30nm away). At an average speed of 6knots, that should take us approx. 5 hours.

It was a lovely sunny day. The wind and waves were mostly on our starboard quarter creating the unpleasant rolling and corkscrewing motion we have had over most of the trip, especially given the first hour of travel is over quite shallow waters (4-8m under the keel). This made the seas quite rough, choppy and the waves closer together. We didn't see any other boats, except all the many cargo coal ships anchored off the port on the horizon to the East and South. There is a tiny island off the North East entrance to Mackay (probably only 50m long), with high tide, we took the inner path over the shallow water (with 3m under the keel).

The seas didn't get any smaller, but they did get slightly further apart as we approached Goldsmith island. The waves also grew in size and now appeared to be slightly over 2m and very rough with cross waves, rolling steady "swell" from the south at 2m and "seas" (wind waves) of 2m from the South East. Daddy is able to measure the height using the yacht stern. The solar panels in the arch are approx. 2.5m above the waterline. Looking at the tops of the waves as we head into a trough, we can therefore make a rough estimate of the waves. For those reading who have not been offshore, the yacht drops into the troughs and for the larger ones, they are large enough, typically once they reach 2.5m high, where you cannot see land and the whole hull of the yacht, even when standing in the cockpit, is lower then the tops of the waves. The first time this happens is especially disconcerting, as you think the waves will roll over the yacht, but no... as the wave approaches, the yacht simply rises with the wave, rocks and rolls... and then drops into the next trough.

With the following sea (waves behind us pushing us along) our speed had picked up and was over 7 knots. We were catching the waves (effectively surfing them) on our way to Goldsmith island. The trip from Mackay to Goldsmith was 4 hours. If that sort of wind and waves occur on a regular basis, it will slow the trip back to Sydney.

As we approached Goldsmith Island the wind and waves picked up further. Seas (wind waves from the South East) near Goldsmith topped 2.5 with the occasional set of 3m and the wind was now constantly above 30 knots and screaming through the rigging. We furled our already 'reefed' jib. The waves had whitecaps and the foam had streaks with spray flying across the ocean and covering the yacht and wetting Daddy. Jasmine went below and played on her iPad on Mummy and Daddy's bunk. Another yacht was spotted 1 nm ahead as we approached Goldsmith Island, it was also making a sprint to the North Western side of the island in an attempt to seek shelter. It must have come from one of the other smaller islands next to Goldsmith (Linne Island or Tinsmith Island). We rounded the South Western head of Goldsmith Island just as an especially strong gust hit us and Daddy watched the wind indicator (a critical measure for bragging rights) hit 44.7 knots, luckily we had dropped our sails as that would have given us a real good lean.

We rounded the south West corner of Goldsmith Island through the passage between Farrier Island (which is a small island next to Goldsmith Island) and into relative shelter, primarily from the waves.

We headed up the Western edge to the more northerly bay and anchored as close to the beach and cliffs as possible for shelter. The wind howled up over the hill and into the bay, and despite being in the protection of the waves, the wind came over the island in bullets (gusts) that were 25-30knots. Once second there would be no wind, then bang, a gust would hit, the rigging would scream and the boat would even heel (simply from the wind on the sails and the sail bag), then it would be calm again. Repeat, repeat. Amazing!

The anchor dragged slightly, about 20-30m before holding fast, but this left us a little further off the island than ideal with the strong currents from the tides that travel north south along the edge of the island rocking the yacht during the tide changes. Being in closer to the shore and inside the headlands gives a bit more protection from this current. Daddy decided to leave it and fix it, move back inshore and attempting to reset the anchor, the following day.

Looking over at Farrier Island, which is a small island with a beach and grassy flat at the Eastern and Southern sides (protected from the Southeast winds and waves by Goldsmith Island, and the Northern end, no more than 300m from tip to tip, rising up a hill with trees and shrubs to a rocky cliff of about 20m high. On that island is a small number of very basic buildings. They all looked quite abandoned, although that may be because we could see a couple of trees knocked over and tree and other debris scattered over the grass and beach from Cyclone Debbie 5-6 weeks or so earlier.

Goldsmith Island, despite the strong winds and boiling ocean we could see ripping around the point, was beautiful! Goldsmith Island is also far larger, about 20+ times the size of Farrier Island in area. It is approx. 4km long and about 1.5km wide at its widest point. The Island is not exactly north south, but probably more 20-30 degrees off with a more NNE to SSW lie.  It is an island with two bays on the Western side (we were anchored in the more northerly one and we saw two yachts, including the one we followed earlier, anchored in the more southerly one opposite Farrier Island). There are also 2 bays on the Eastern side of the island, although they are shallow and not currently offering any protection from the South East wind and the waves. Each bay has its own sandy beach, we were anchored approximately 100m (now that the anchor had dragged slightly) from the beach. It was a wonderful location. The island has a camping area and a bush toilet but otherwise is unoccupied. We had the whole northern area to ourselves.

As it was now getting dark, we didn't immediately go ashore but put on our mooring light. We put the items of gear back away that had fallen out of bunks during the trip, had showers and Daddy cooked dinner which we enjoyed watching a movie. Tomorrow we might try and move the yacht back closer to the shore (again) and see if the anchor will set and explore the beach. Being closer to the beach and the cliffs at the end of the beach might give slightly more protection from the bullets of wind.

Days 27, 28, 29 and 30. 5-8th May Strong winds, waiting in Mackay

We have had really strong winds (>30Knots) and large seas offshore every day now since our arrival in Mackay and have spent the time doing schooling, reading, washing etc. We also went to see a movie on 7th May at a local cinema (travel by bus and taxi home). Jasmine and Daddy saw "Boss Baby", and Mummy and Nicholas saw the "Lego Batman Movie" which we all enjoyed.

Mackay has had a major impact following the large drop in coal prices (which more recently have bounced back slightly). Apparently many of the homes and units are vacant. According to people we have spoken to, the town had close to 160,000 people in the boom, yet 30,000 have now left. One cab driver said he was taking people to the airport who had simply got up and left everything, cars, houses, boats, and simply taken a bag on a plane. Many over extended. Property prices have dropped considerably since the peak, some said 30%. Living in Sydney, it is difficult to understand the impacts of the resource boom and downturn given the size of Sydney, but the impacts on Mackay have been significant. Hopefully, for Mackay and the residents, things improve as it was a lovely city (large town?) to visit.

We have decided to wait it out until the conditions improve. Weather is expected to be better tomorrow Monday 8th May (at least relatively). Weather forecast is for seas and swell of 2m and wind up to 25knots. That is not ideal but we can't keep waiting, things should be better in the Whitsunday Islands where there is more protection, and at least we can enjoy a swim in the sheltered bays if the conditions are not ideal. In any case, we don't really need to keep travelling once we are there.

As Nicholas' Naplan school tests (3 days worth) start on Tuesday 9th May, Mummy and Nicholas will jump on a bus for Proserpine tomorrow morning the 8th May and fly out from there to Sydney. Nicholas will stay in school those four days and play soccer with his club on Saturday. Jasmine and Daddy will leave for the Whitsunday Islands on Monday and meet them on Mother's Day 14th May at Airlie Beach.

Day 26 - 4 May 2017 - Shopping in Mackay

We took the opportunity to head into Mackay early in the morning by bus to the Caneland Central shopping centre. It was absolutely huge, as big as the largest shopping centres in Sydney.

We were able to get some groceries and generally browse the shops.

We returned to the boat and the kids did some more school work. We enjoyed a nice meal at the steak house on the edge of the marina.

Weather forecast for the next 3 days is not good. Strong wind warnings (and we can see and hear it howling through the marina as well). Kite surfers are taking advantace of this at the nearby beach although sand is being blow up the beach. Seas are expected to be up to 2.5m with a 2m swell, wind 25-30knots gusts to 35knots. Looks like we will be here for some days.

Mummy and Nicholas had plans to get back to Sydney for 1 week from Proserpine on Monday 8th so Nicholas can do his Naplan year 5 tests. If we are delayed much further, they will need to catch a bus up to the airport and Daddy and Jasmine will bring the yacht up to the Whitsundays. Plan is to go via the Goldsmith group in the south, only a short hop away and then island hop to Airlie Beach.

Day 25 - 3 May 2017 Welcome to Mackay

Having departed South Percy Island due to the uncomfortable roll, we left the protection of the island and found a reasonably comfortable ride, almost no wind, motoring to Mackay (72nm). Within a few hours however the wind arrived in force as well as rain squalls. With the clouds in the sky, all around was pitch black, totally pitch black. Turning off all the instruments and lights and adjusting our eyes enabled us to see a faint glow on the horizon, which must have been the lights of Mackay in the very distance reflecting off the clouds.

We travelled through the night and in the early hours of the morning as the sun rose, we witnessed a beautiful rainbow through the rain showers.

With the fuel tank almost empty, Daddy went on deck at about 3am and ran the fuel cable back to top off (to 3/4 full) the main diesel tank.

Off Mackay are a large number of marked (on the chart) anchoring areas for large coal ships. These are huge ships, especially in a small yacht at close range (we passed some at anchor as close as 100m). As we approached through the morning light (pun intended), we were surrounded by over 32 of these container ships racked up in rows like a car park as far as the eye could see on the horizon all riding high and awaiting their turn to fill up. We didn't see a single person on any of the decks or bridges. Some looked new, others, rusting hulks in disrepair.

We called the Marina, now we were back in range of phone towers, and arranged a spot, followed the leads (lights and shore markers showing the centre of the channel) in following a large sugar? ship, filled our diesel tanks at the fuel wharf, tied up to the dock and enjoyed a nice relaxing, refreshing, long shower in the change facilities. We also took the opportunity to get some washing done.

The marina is surrounded by huge stone walls. At low tide (and the tides are 3-4m, they are 2/3rds of the hight of our mast, so about 3 stories high. Apparently they have been repaired 3 times, each time making the wall and size of the boulders larger  in the last 8 years (according to information we heard from someone at the marina) after being damaged from storms/cyclones. The last cyclone didn't cause too much damage. The north east swells that arrived after the most recent early April cyclone (2 days later), rolled into the marina entrance (which is on the North East Cnr) and caused damage to a number of the pontoons. Apart from that, little damage was done to Mackay. We have heard that Airlie Beach in the Whitsundays however was heavily damaged with a number of the pontoons and over 30 vessels sunk and many others damaged. We will no doubt see all this when we eventually arrive there.

We approached the reception at the nearby hotel on the edge of the marina and they kindly gave us permission to use their pool. Nicholas, Jasmine and Daddy, enjoyed a quick swim before dinner at a Thai restaurant on the edge of the Marina.

Aim is to stay here for tomorrow and then head off towards Airlie Beach Marina in the Whitsundays the following morning (subject to weather).

Day 24 - 2 May 2017 - South Percy Island

We had beautiful weather and the seas and wind had fallen from the previous day. We again started early with Nicholas and Jasmine again still in bed. We upped anchor, finding a large clay lump on the end, and headed to South Percy Island. The journey was largely uneventful although we did see numerious schools of tuna and attempted to catch one, unsuccessfully, with our lure.

When we arrived off the North Eastern end of South Percy Island, we were protected from the South East waves and Southerly winds and we anchored in 8m of water. Daddy, Nicholas and Jasmine used the 30min of remaining light to quickly go ashore and explore the beach. There were amazing polished black stones on the white sand, which had fallen from the rocks at the end of the beach where there was a cliff face. Jasmine decided to keep a few of the smaller ones to remember the trip by. We walked along the beach and had a quick dip. The beach was covered in pumic and Nicholas used the time to skip stones across the water. It was getting dark so Jasmine took command of the tender and motored everyone back to Morning Light. Good one Jasmine!

Dinner and bed.... well not quite. By about 10pm the seas had increased in size and taken a more Easterly heading. The yacht was rolling again badly and it was impossible to sleep. At midnight Daddy and Mummy decided to up anchor and head to Mackay. The anchor was caught around rocks underwater, but after 10min of effort raising and lowering, raising and lowering, raising and lowering we were able to raise the anchor and head off to Mackay. A long night ahead!

Day 23 - 1 May 2017 - Off to Port Clinton

We awoke to a rising wind from the South and rising seas from the South East. Unfortunately as we had to keep our speed up, we were not able to explore Great Keppel Island and after bringing up the light anchor and the cable (rope) used the night before so successfully to swing the yacht into the swell, we were off.

The yacht surfed relatively comfortably down the waves, with a bit of a roll, as we headed north. We sighted 3 very large dolphins less than 1 hour from our departure, just north of North Keppel Island. These three stayed with us putting on a great show for about 5 mins allowing us to get some great footage and photos. These ones seemed larger than any of the dolphins we has sighted previously; again a reminder to look up these different breeds to understand the differences.

Daddy and Mummy took the opportunity to relax on the deck as our friend, "auto pilot", steered us up the coast. For mile after mile we surfed down 2m waves in beautiful bright sun shine off beautiful sandy beaches to our port side (less than 4 nautical miles away). Those waves however were slowly getting bigger and the wind increasing too, so the methodical roll took on a suprising turn, when and especially large wave combined with a gust allowed the yacht to bury the whole port rail and even worse, wet Daddy's feet! We all dosed back off.

We were able to contact Coast Guard and log our journey to Port Clinton and radioed to log off when we arrived.

Port Clinton, once entered, is a protected safe anchorage.  It is like a large lake surrounded by sandy beaches and mangrove trees, it is not a "port" in the sense there is anything there,... because there isn't. Once again, Daddy was reminded of Myall Lakes. The Northern edge is bound by the restricted Army Training area, "Shoalwater Bay".

We anchored in 7m of water just inside the point and 400m away from another yacht who was also enjoying the protection. The only other sign of people was a speed boat, fishing, but we have no idea where they came from as the whole lake didn't appear to have any signs of human civilization that would support such a small boat.

We checked with the Coast Guard as we entered, and they confirmed that it was unlikely, but possible for a Croc and Box Jelly fish to be in the Port, so we had to be careful.

We took again the opportunity to explore and headed ashore in the tender to the middle of a white sandy beach (300m long) no more than 400m away across a shallow sand flat. The shallow water was barely 1m deep, and by the time we were 20m from shore, it was barely 0.5m deep. The water was clear and would make it almost impossible for a croc to approach and we were all wearing rash/stinger suits. Given it was so shallow we had to wade the last 20m in to shore and our swim largely involved lying in the water cooling off; much appreciated as it was so hot.

Nicholas and Jasmine took the opportunity to attempt to rebuild their trench that was destroyed by the rising tide at Bundaberg. Mummy and Daddy, took the opportunity to walk the 200m to the Southern end of the beach exploring. One fascinating find was evidence of tiny crabs. These crabs had made their homes in a stretch no more than 2m wide at the high water mark up the whole length of the beach. To dig their holes, the crabs had made tiny, tiny sand balls, one quarter the size of a pea. There was therefore a 2m wide strip the length of the beach covered in tiny sand marbles!

With the tide flowing quickly out and no wish to be caught having to haul the tender and engine across the sand flats, we headed back to the yacht.

This gave us now the opportunity to do a few other chores. We were now without any bread, so Mummy made and baked 2 beautiful fresh loaves. The fresh smell of bread filled the yacht and made everyone hungry.

The yacht has 2 water tanks, and we had emptied one and were well on the way to emptying the other. Daddy took the opportunity to test the water desalinator using the Honda Generator for power. After an hour he was able to put 130L of water into the empty water tank, giving enough of a reserve until the next expected landfall at Mackay in 2 days.

After a nice dinner and move, it was off to bed once again. Tomorrow's trip is expected to be approx. 52NM to anchor off the northern side of South Percy Island.

Day 22 - 30 April 2017 - The trip to Great Keppel Island

An early rise had us heading out of the lagoon with the sun barely up. Just our luck it was an overcast sky with strong winds. It was almost impossible to spot the bommies and determine depth. After several aborted attempts to find a safe passage, we eventually were able to get out of the lagoon as the sun rose higher and there was slightly less gloom. Another yacht was able to take advantage of our attempts and followed the safe passage we had found.

We have been out of radio and phone range for several days now so once again we picked up our weather report off the HF radio.

Poor Jasmine was initially sick at the start of the trip to Great Keppel Island. Good news was that after a few hours everyone improved and we settled down to a steady pace for our next stop on the journey.

Once again we spotted dolphins on the journey, they only stayed briefly with us but it was a welcome distraction. 

Mummy found a copy of the extracts from Capt James Cook's journal published in "Curtis Coast" by Noel Patrick. It was absolutely wonderful reading, it described the very area we were travelling through and was amazingly accurate and fascinating to read. Here we were with all the modern comforts, HF radio for weather, detailed charts with depths, depth sounders, auto-pilots, engines, fresh water, easy to furl sails, yachts that can easily sail up or down wind. We really have it easy!

We crossed the Tropic of Capricorn at approx. 4pm and arrived around the back (Northern side) of Great Keppel Island to anchor for the night, sheltered from the Southerly wind and South East swell. It was pitch black. There were at least another 10 mooring lights visible as we approached the anchoring spot. At night it is almost impossible to tell distance from the lights. We anchored as close as we dared and attempted to settle down for the night.

The South East swell rolled around the Eastern point and while the Yacht was pointed South into the winds which were still over 20 knots even with the shelter from the island, it left the yacht in the trough (side on to the waves) and rolling terribly. Daddy had difficulty keeping in his bunk. We attempted to cast out a light stern anchor, however it dragged almost immediately, a second attempt also failed.

As a final last ditched effort we tied a long rope from the jib winch on the starboard side to the anchor chain. This allowed us to slowly winch the yacht so that it was pointed into the rolling swell making it far more bearable. A good lesson learned the hard way!

Off to Port Clinton tomorrow.

Day 21 - 29 April 2017 - No departure today, more snorkling with those graceful turtles

We had originally considered a depature today but the wind continues to blow at 25-30knots with waves breaking heavily on the outer reef and foam and smaller waves rolling across the lagoon, especially during high tide. We managed to tune up the High Frequency Radio to the Weather channel out of Charleville Queensland on 8176hz and made a decision to remain an extra day at Lady Musgrave. The seas were expected to drop tomorrow back to 1.5-2m and wind back to 15-20 knots.

The day was spent again doing school work, and playing a board game as a family in the morning. In the afternoon as the tide dropped, the reef gave greater protection to the lagoon, and we all boarded the tender for the bumpy trip to the reef for some snorkeling. This time, Daddy was able to pull out his second Go-pro video camera and after charging the batteries, shared one with the kids.

We entered the water for snorkeling and almost immediately saw a turtle. During that afternoon Jasmine saw 9 turtles and everyone else saw 8. We were able to swim and dive among all the fish and turtles comfortably, and managed to get some reasonable footage from the video cameras that could be edited into a short video later.

Everyone was quite proficient now at snorkeling, and this was while there were some reasonably rough waves rolling over the area that often filled our snorkels. It was a long afternoon, but we had to get back. Nicholas motored us back to the yacht and we rested up for our trip back to the mainland in the morning.

As a result of the extended stay, we now had to get to Mackay and on to Airlie Beach as quickly as we could so that Nicholas and Mummy could get back to Sydney for 1 week for Nicholas' year 5 Naplan tests. Flights were already booked in advance from Proserpine Airport.

We now decided to head to the back of Great Keppel Island and then on to Port Clinton on the mainland. This would be a long trip so we aimed for an early start (as soon as the sun was up so we could see the bommies).

Day 20 - 28 April 2017 - Snorkling with the Turtles

The wind is still howling (25-30knots) and the seas leave us rocking at the mooring. We saw a few of the yacht in the lagoon leave and watched them disappear in the rough seas outside the lagoon. White caps and foam are still blowing across the lagoon but we are afforded some protection.

We spent the morning doing some school work and playing a board game as a family.

When it was low tide in the afternoon, the waves dropped slightly and we headed back over to the little bay we had discovered on the first day for some more snorkeling. Daddy brought his go-pro this time. We all dived in an watched the beautiful fish swimming along the edge of the coral drop-off. Nicholas and Jasmine were becoming experts and started to build up the courage to dive down under the surface to see certain fish and corals at close hand. The battery on the Go-pro, despite being charged fully before leaving Sydney, was very quickly flat. Immediately after it was put back into the tender, the turtles were spotted.

We saw 4 turtles that afternoon and also a school of cuttlefish.

Everyone was tired and cold from the wind as we motored back at the end of the day in the rough wet conditions. We arrived to the yacht to find that Daddy's life jacket, which was in the tender when we went snorkeling, had blow overboard and was missing. Daddy went back to the reef and found it sitting on the top of the exposed corals. We clipped all the lifejackets onto the back of the yacht so they wouldn't blow out over night.

It was again a windy night with an uncomfortable roll when the tide rose during the night. The yacht did a strong see-saw swigging on the anchor; but the anchor didn't drag. Daddy got up, as he did the night before, a couple of times to check references and bearings to ensure there was no drag that would risk the yacht ending up on the nearby reef.

Day 19 - 27 April 2017 - Exploring Lady Musgrave Island - watch out for the bird poo

The wind has picked up (25knots with gusts of 35 knots), small waves up to 0.5m, foam and white caps are rolling across the lagoon. After breakfast we all relaxed playing a few board games waiting for the tide to drop. With a lower tide, the rollers will not be able to come over the top of the reef.

At low tide in the afternoon, we ventured out to Lady Musgrave Island. The channel in is extremely tight with many small bommies and the last part just before the beach is rock and sharp dead coral which required Daddy to cut the engine, jump out and pull the inflatable tender in to the beach. We pulled the tender up on the beach and Nicholas and Jasmine help set the anchor high up on the beach with large lumps of dead dried coral rocks helping to weigh it down.

As we walked away from the tender we spotted 2 turtles 5m off the beach swimming along the edge of the beach. Lady Musgrave is a small island about 1km long (East-West) and perhaps 700m wide (Nth-South) surrounded by a lagoon which is perhaps 1.4km long (East-West) and perhaps 1km wide (North - South). The coral reef that surrounds the lagoon and joins the island at the Western edge, varies in width and is approx. 100-150m wide. At low water tide, the top of the reef is exposed and at high water, waves break on the outer edge but then roll (with reduced power) into the lagoon. The island is snuggled on the Western end of the reefring with the lagoon to the East. The island has a camping site for visitors at the North Western end, a few short walking trails through the reasonably dense trees and foliage and some basic toilets. The island is made of sand and broken down coral that has built up over many years.

The island is used by turtles for nesting, particularly the Western end.

We walked in an anti-clockwise direction around the island starting from the landing site on the Eastern end.

We saw lots of sea shells and different types of coral that made up the island. We met a lovely lady who was apparently a volunteer guide who was camping on the island. She showed us a few of the signs that had been erected on the island with details on the turtles that nest (there are several types including Green and Loggerhead). The island is also a home to what seems like millions of birds. The tops of the trees are covered with different sea birds.

Daddy asked how the entrance was made into the lagoon. This is the only island in the whole Barrier Reef with a safe deep passage into a protected lagoon with an island.

The lady said there is much debate on how it was made, but no-one is certain. One interesting theory is that the Japanese used explosive to make the small entrance during the second world war. There was apparently a small retreat on the island that was closed and abandoned in the early 1940's. 

The lady said they had seen small turtles hatching each of the past 3 nights and suggested we come back then.

Daddy was lucky to get the birds to give him their special gift (poo) on his back and shoulder. We beat a hasty retreat back to the beach and continued on our walk around the island.

We saw a number of small sand crabs and on the Southern side, saw lots of rocks made up of fosselised corals that formed the foundations of the island and existing reef. Daddy showed everyone a number of small clams in the shallows and we gently touched the outer lips and watched them snap shut. As they shut, as they were just under the water, water squrted up over Daddy which everyone thought was funny.

Back to the tender and back to our yacht.

We returned back to the island after a short wait through even larger waves and strong winds at night. It was a bit of a challenge getting to the beach, however with the higher tide (and larger waves) the water was higher up the beach and after cutting the engine close to shore, Daddy waded the tender in with water up to his chest. The wind was howling and everyone was wet and a bit cold.

We walked around the beach with some torches but unfortunately we were unable to see any baby turtles that night. As we walked back slowly on the Northern edge of the island (protected as the wind was from the South East), we saw small and large fish cruising along the edge, we saw what looked like a small reef shark (about 2 foot long), a turtle on the Northern edge and another three turtles on the beach edge near the tender. The small sand crabs, about the size of a 20 cent piece with a few as large as a squash ball, were in large numbers all along the beach. The funny little things would freeze in the torch lights and we had difficulty not stepping on them.

We got back to the boat, after being drenched in the wind and waves, for a quick shower, dinner and bed.